Understated. Until it Isn't

Understated. Until it isn't

When I first designed the Derby Simple, my goal was to create a shoe that could move fluidly between the formal and the casual, the polished and the undone.

With its clean silhouette, subtle curves, and quiet confidence, it quickly became one of our most beloved models—especially among those who value versatility without sacrificing character.

Over the years, the shoe has taken many forms, but what truly made it stand out in the eyes of aficionados was our version in Country Calf.

The 3D patina we developed revealed different tonalities across the pebbled grain, almost like light hitting the surface of a sculpture. It gave depth to simplicity, and movement to minimalism.

For this Group-made-to-order, I wanted to return to a leather that’s more understated on first glance, but infinitely rewarding over time—Becerro Villarramiel in black. You may remember it from our recent Haring Boot: a waxy finish, a natural texture, and a surface that wears like a visual diary. It’s a leather that doesn’t hide its history.

Like our Wabi Sabi shoe, it proudly records every crease, every scrape, every step. That, to me, is elegance with soul.

We’ve added a 360-degree storm welt for structure and protection, giving this version a slightly heartier silhouette.

It’s still unmistakably the Derby Simple, but with just a bit more presence—built to weather more, and to age beautifully.

There’s something about this version that takes me back to my youth. The matte black leather, the raw texture—it reminds me of worn jackets, cracked boots, underground bars and the punk rock aesthetic that first taught me how to break rules with style.

This GMTO is available until Sunday, June 1st.

If you’re looking for a pair that’s refined, rebellious, and will only get better with wear, I invite you to join us.

—Norman

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Derby Simple Shoe MTO - Becerro Villarramiel